The Perfect Bias Cut Linen Shell

Full Bust Adjustment

My favorite summer top of all time is a bias-cut shell,

from the September 1999 issue of Burda magazine, style 111.

When I first made it, around 10 years ago,

 using light-weight linen, the possibility

of having firm, durable fabric

that molds itself to my body was an epiphany.

It pulls on over the head, eliminating any buttons or zips

 and looks good with any shirt I wear open over it.

I’ve since made blouses with sleeves

cut on the bias in linen with similar success.

My body has changed considerably 10 years. 

I noticed the hem getting shorter with the end 

of the dart way above my bust. It was time

to alter the pattern and make a bunch

 of them in different colors.

To understand above-the-waist darts, 

be aware that darts pivot from the largest point of the upper torso.

 This translates to the bust apex on most people. 

Other body types, pregnancy or a medical condition may cause 

the stomach to protrude more than the bust, 

requiring a different procedure for altering the pattern.

My formula for adjusting for a full bust is:

Body Measurement Plus Ease 

Minus Pattern Measurement = Amount to Add

The basic parameters are: Linen fabric - Bias Cut

This procedure may not be suitable for other fabrics

 or straight of grain cutting. 

It might work, I just have not tried it.

I will have established the pattern shoulder ends

 at 7-5/8” from center front.

My body measures 7-1/2” – 

an acceptable difference – no change.

Apex of the bust is 4-1/2” from center front, and 11-1/2” 

from mid shoulder.

It’s indicated by the small cross labeled AB. 

The Apex Line is drawn perpendicular to the center front line.

The shell is often worn under a shirt or cardigan and the

bias cut provides flexibility; therefore,

 I will allow only 1” wearing ease.

My bust: 43” plus ease = 44”

Figure 1. Shell Pattern ready to alter 

Horizontal lines from top: 

Center Front to Shoulder Joint, Apex and Waist

Side seam lines are only drawn from the waist

 to the hem and the underarm to the apex line.

Calculate:

Pattern back width*        21.25

 Plus Apex to Apex           9.00

Total                                30.25

My bust: 42" or 43” (depending on the day) plus ease.

Needed:                    44.00

Less:                         30.25  

Total                         13.75”

13-3/4” divided by 2 = 6-7/8”

Pattern front from apex to side is 6”.

I need to add approximately 1".

 and I spread my pattern by that amount.

Slash from hem to apex line, up to but not through the armhole.

Slash on the the apex line from the side to, but not through the apex.

The dart legs, that have opened by spreading, measure 1-1/8”

I made sure the legs of the dart are equal length.

I covered the dart with clean paper on the illustration,

but made my adjustments on the tracing paper

and drew the new lines on the illustration. 

The post of Wednesday, June 26 covers 

folding in the dart.

I'll end the dart with the point 3” from my bust apex.

You will need to determine where your side bust dart will end.

Consider a cone, if you start sewing at the widest part, 

it ends at the point of the cone, which lies somewhere

between the side seam, and the apex of your bust.

Sarah Veblen explains how to find 

where your dart should end in the 

Q & A section of ThreadsMagazine, issue 181,

 Oct/Nov 2015 (Threads Archive 1985 – 2018). 

I extend my apex line, and make a new dart

that is balanced on the apex line.

The pattern is folded from the new dart end to the hem.

The dart is folded closed with the upper half  
of the dart folded down.

The pattern is smoothed flat putting a fold from the

dart end to the shoulder.

The side seam line is drawn, connecting the line

from the underarm to the waist.

Now to cut it out and sew it up…

Back in a bit to report the results!