Wednesday, June 26, 2019

Nico - Moving the dart for Women of a Certain Age


The Naked Nico

A delightful pattern from 

This technical rendition of the front of the Nico pattern
shows how the darts are on the diagonal, starting at the bust 
and ending just above the waist. 

The diagonal front dart is very flattering in most cases.

However, I don't like ironing. 

When my dress comes from the
dryer, the darts are puckered, because they are cut on
neither the straight grain, nor the
true bias. Only ironing or heavy handed 
finger pressing smooths them out.

To fix the problem, I want my darts on the true bias, 
meaning they are balanced, and the darts legs
(the dart seam-line)
are both the same angle.

I also have other problems - such as a large bra cup size,
 and saggy boobs. It happens at my age. The Saggy
Boob Club has a lot of members, and we don't 
want a spotlight on it. When that particular
characteristic blends into the whole body image, 
we can maintain the dignity only achieved
by reaching a beautiful old age. 

But here, I will address one thing at a time:

First, move the dart. To do that, we must find 
where the dart needs to be.

The singular purpose of a dart is to provide shaping 
to allow fitting the highest point.

Therefore that point is referred to as the Apex, 
and is often, not always, the location of the nipple.

It is the highest point of the bust 
whether shaped like a cone
or a balloon.

That point established, darts 
on the front of  a garment from the
neck to the waist all radiate from those 2 points:
The high point of each breast, the Apex.

I measured with the tape on my bra strap, 
from my shoulder to my apex: 11.5" and drew
a line perpendicular to the center front.

Then I measured the distance between
 the apex of each breast, the apex width: 9"
and marked the half pattern 4.5" from center front.

The dart point lies between the side seam and the apex.
That point is addressed in the next post.

Step one: Using 20 lb Bond Plotter Paper 
(sold through Amazon)
I traced my one half the pattern 
(from center front), and drew the dart seam lines, 
removed all seam allowance, and cut it out, removing
the paper within the dart (the dart gap).


Step 2:  Isolate the placement of the dart, 
and indicate the correct placement.


The red lines have the dart in a box. 
Where the green horizontal line meets 
the green vertical line is within one-fourth 
inch of my personal bust apex.

Horizontal lines have been drawn 
90 degrees from the center front.

Vertical lines are parallel to the center front.

Step 3: Cut out the box containing the original 
dart and shift it down till the red horizontal 
line meets the green horizontal line.


I have extended my green apex line to make it easier to line up. 
The dart has shifted down, but the box remains parallel 
to the center front. 

Step 4: Tape the dart box in position, and tape a paper scrap
in the open space above the dart. Draw fold line #1
from the dart point to the hem. Fold on that line.


Step 5: With pattern folded on line #1, close the dart, 
and crease the pattern where it folds to lie flat - #2.
It has been drawn only to indicate the approximate location.


This illustrates how the pattern looks with the dart closed, 
and the seam line corrected.

Step 6: Open the pattern and trace it again on a clean sheet of paper
that is wide enough to draw both halves, to make 
a complete front pattern for laying on the bias.

You only need the seam lines, notches and open dart 
if lowering the dart was all you needed. 

Now I know where I want the dart  - I will move it from
the diagonal to be centered on the apex line.



Wednesday, June 19, 2019

Easy Way to "Iron" Linen


What is the difference between the right side of the roll, and the left side?

This linen has been pre- washed, Thoroughly dried,
 and laid in a jumble until I could get to it.

To ready it for putting on a roll, I laid it out 
on the cutting table.

 My cutting table is a yard-sale
 ping pong table top, supported by cabinets
 and is 60" wide by 72" long.

First, I cut off the selvedges. 

Then I sprayed the entire piece with water
from a spray bottle.

With only my hands, I smoothed the fabric,
lengthwise and crosswise.

When satisfied the grain was aligned correctly
and most of the wrinkles gone,

I turned on the ceiling fan, and left it to dry.

That is the ONLY difference
 between the two areas of fabric.

When water is absorbed by the linen, the fiber
relaxes and wrinkles disappear. 
It can expand, but will return to size when dry. 
It is important to avoid over-drying linen.
Do not store it damp, to avoid mildew. 
If my linen is wet, and I can't work it at 
the moment, I will sometimes 
put it in the a plastic bag in the freezer.

When I wash my linen garments, I dry them on the
lowest setting, and when possible, remove
them before they are completely dry.
If they do get dry, I will re-wet them. 
Details will be finger pressed, and
I may hang the garment to finish drying, or
will lay it flat and press with my palms.

I will "iron" a blouse occasionally, depending
on the style and embellishments.

This particular linen is from Dharma Trading.
It is their Lin 21: 3.8 oz. - 52 X 53 tpi.
Its lightness, and slight transparency makes
it suitable for lingerie and blouses. Like all Dharma 
fabrics, it dyes beautifully.