Nico - Moving the dart for Women of a Certain Age

The Naked Nico

A delightful pattern from 

fabrics-store.com

This technical rendition of the front of the Nico pattern

shows how the darts are on the diagonal, starting at the bust 

and ending just above the waist. 

The diagonal front dart is very flattering in most cases.

However, I don't like ironing. 

When my dress comes from the

dryer, the darts are puckered, because they are cut on

neither the straight grain, nor the

true bias. Only ironing or heavy handed 

finger pressing smooths them out.

To fix the problem, I want my darts on the true bias, 

meaning they are balanced, and the darts legs

(the dart seam-line)

are both the same angle.

I also have other problems - such as a large bra cup size,

 and saggy boobs. It happens at my age. The Saggy

Boob Club has a lot of members, and we don't 

want a spotlight on it. When that particular

characteristic blends into the whole body image, 

we can maintain the dignity only achieved

by reaching a beautiful old age. 

But here, I will address one thing at a time:

First, move the dart. To do that, we must find 

where the dart needs to be.

The singular purpose of a dart is to provide shaping 

to allow fitting the highest point.

Therefore that point is referred to as the Apex, 

and is often, not always, the location of the nipple.

It is the highest point of the bust 

whether shaped like a cone

or a balloon.

That point established, darts 

on the front of  a garment from the

neck to the waist all radiate from those 2 points:

The high point of each breast, the Apex.

I measured with the tape on my bra strap, 

from my shoulder to my apex: 11.5" and drew

a line perpendicular to the center front.

Then I measured the distance between

 the apex of each breast, the apex width: 9"

and marked the half pattern 4.5" from center front.

The dart point lies between the side seam and the apex.

That point is addressed in the next post.

Step one: Using 20 lb Bond Plotter Paper 

(sold through Amazon)

I traced my one half the pattern 

(from center front), and drew the dart seam lines, 

removed all seam allowance, and cut it out, removing

the paper within the dart (the dart gap).

Step 2:  Isolate the placement of the dart, 

and indicate the correct placement.

The red lines have the dart in a box. 

Where the green horizontal line meets 

the green vertical line is within one-fourth 

inch of my personal bust apex.

Horizontal lines have been drawn 

90 degrees from the center front.

Vertical lines are parallel to the center front.

Step 3: Cut out the box containing the original 

dart and shift it down till the red horizontal 

line meets the green horizontal line.

I have extended my green apex line to make it easier to line up. 

The dart has shifted down, but the box remains parallel 

to the center front. 

Step 4: Tape the dart box in position, and tape a paper scrap

in the open space above the dart. Draw fold line #1

from the dart point to the hem. Fold on that line.

Step 5: With pattern folded on line #1, close the dart, 

and crease the pattern where it folds to lie flat - #2.

It has been drawn only to indicate the approximate location.

This illustrates how the pattern looks with the dart closed, 

and the seam line corrected.

Step 6: Open the pattern and trace it again on a clean sheet of paper

that is wide enough to draw both halves, to make 

a complete front pattern for laying on the bias.

You only need the seam lines, notches and open dart 

if lowering the dart was all you needed. 

Now I know where I want the dart  - I will move it from

the diagonal to be centered on the apex line.