From the Test Kitchen - Appliqué Needles

Clover Black Gold Needles

A well designed Needle makes all the difference

When I first saw these needles, I thought "What's the point in having a coated needle? Surely there are ways to minimize the chance of a rusting."

Then I set aside my quilting "betweens," and tried them. It felt as if the needle didn't slide through the fabric as smoothly, but it wasn't a problem. So I continued adding a different color silk to each needle until all were in my linen needle book.

I  live in a warm and humid coastal area and have found that cotton or wool needle books will hold the moisture and cause the needles to rust, while linen, though absorbent, dries quickly.

What to do when...

You must modify a pattern without changing the stitch count ~

-from the diary of a brain damaged creative.

            Sometimes, you just need to make changes. Perhaps your creativity angel is poking you and the only way to get her to stop is to pay attention and do as she demands.

But with knitting, you can really go off the rails making changes when you don’t know what you’re doing. The main thing is stitch count. If you have a stitch dictionary, you’ll notice that all the patterns have a set stitch count. It may be “Multiple of 7 plus 4." When I see that, I know the pattern is symmetrical, and that it takes 4 additional stitches to even things out at the end of the row (or repeat.) The smaller the repeat of the stitch and row count, the safer it is to modify: Stockinette stitch is 1 stitch (knit on right side) one row, and another stitch (purl on wrong side) on the next row when knitting flat. To further complicate things, if you are knitting circular every row is knit - making it easy to modify. Garter stitch also lends itself to modifications, being 1 stitch (knit) on every row, but knitting circular you would knit one row, purl one row. A border of 22 rows – each row with a different stitch count would be difficult, if not impossible, to change unless the 'pattern' changes will match the main body of the project. For example: your project ends with 3 major parts (right side, back, left side) but the border pattern is a repeat of 8 plus some. Three does not go into eight without having something left over. If the leftover is not equal to the "plus some" of each row it won't work. As much as we'd like to, there is no changing laws of physics to suit ourselves.

 So let’s stay safe out there! (to quote an old tv show)

 

How can I change a pattern without changing the stitch count?

            Enlarging: Requirements include having enough yarn. When you are satisfied that you do, you can gradually move up to larger needles. There is a sweet spot when it comes to needle size, yarn size and stitch size, so you will want to play around with swatches first to make sure your choices will work.

            Downsizing: This gets tricky but is generally easier than enlarging a pattern. A long-sleeved top-down pullover (jumper to my British friends) may be OK being cut off just below (or above) the bust. The shawl may work with a different, but narrower border provided the stitch count is compatible with the stitch count of the main part of it.

            Again, you can change the gauge by using a finer yarn and smaller needles. Swatching is necessary to know what will work and what will not.

            Felting or “fulling”: If you feel really confident you can shrink the finished item. This is scary but could conceivably work. Felting means to make felt while fulling is shrinking only a little to make the fabric look fuller. Be aware when shrinking that nothing really goes away – a shorter length/width means a thicker fabric. Note: It is possible that "fulling" was a historical term for blocking. Except woven items were fulled as well as knitted and knotted so that is debatable.

YIKES! You can see you will not have enough yarn – the dye lot is not available (or yarn was custom dyed) and you are on a deadline to finish this project. You are too far into it to rip it out and start over.

            Here is where it is helpful to have learned to analyze patterns: Examine the pattern repeats, count stitches, count rows – try to find where substituting another yarn or color will work. There are several options – or things you wish to avoid.

            Spotty color: A small consistent color change may result in polka dots that really don't play well with the over-all pattern. Small color changes may mean weaving in ends to the point of adding weight to the over-all project that changes the “look” and “drape.”

            Stripes: Whole rows of color change may result in stripes. The effect can be minimized by choosing the same color that is one step up or down in value (lightness or darkness). The goal is making it look intentional!

            Borders: A contrasting border might work. Consideration of color*, contrast** and harmony*** is essential to giving the final project the look of being planned from the beginning. ***”Harmony” means to pick up a color that is already present in the project, but not the main color. **”Contrast” means a shade lighter or darker. *”Color” means introducing an entirely new color that blends well with colors already in the pattern. These design principles, noted by asterisks, are specific to this article – there are more things to know about each one than is described here.

Please leave a comment if you found this helpful.

How to re-Write a Knitting Pattern for People Who Can't Read

How to set up a knitting pattern in Excel

for people who cannot read charts or written patterns.

This spreadsheet was created using Microsoft Excel. Other programs may be similar, but different in some respects. Any similarity to a previously published pattern is coincidental.

Set up the spreadsheet with column width at 4.0 to 6.0 and height at 25 – 30 (whatever you are comfortable with.) The size of the cells relates to the amount of information, and font size of the contents of each cell. Cells should be big enough for the least amount of info that can be understood and smallest font you can easily see.

Format the cells as "Text" so Excel doesn't auto correct your entries.

Table 1   A pattern that is not a pattern - only for illustration.

Run the cursor down the rows and right click. 

A menu should come up, with the words “hide and “unhide.”

                      The rows affected will turn green in the row count column, and grey across the sheet.

                                    Note the lifeline after End of row 1

 The “hide” feature allows you to hide some rows so you can place the row you are working on to sit just below the first row – in this case, the number of stitches. You “unhide” the hidden rows when you need to refer back to them, as you would when the pattern says, “repeat row 2.”

 

 Column A shows the number of stitches you have at the beginning of the row and the end of the row, so you can count to check your accuracy. A pattern may have an even, equal number in the right and left sides and an odd number in the middle if the pattern is symmetrical. It may have that an odd number on each side and still be symmetrical. Look for a pattern within the pattern.

Inst - look for instructions on this line. I merge cells above what the instructions refer to, then type the instruction inside the merged cell. I may have to change the font to make it fit.

I put a wide, dark border around my set of 3 parts to each row.

When I complete 20 stitches, (less on a bad day) or a pattern repeat, I place a marker.

I am never counting more than 20 at a time.

Column B shows the rows according to whether they are the right side of a garment, the center, or the left side of a garment. The different background colors of the 3 row indicate that the 3 rows group in the same knitting row.

Each cell indicates what you do.

K, knit; P, purl; O, Yarn over  - in a size 11 pt. or 12 pt. font

and p2tog in size 8 pt. font.

Increased stitches are shaded green, and only those show up as a double wide cell in the case of working 2 stitches together. “Make Ones” and “yarn overs” are shown as one stitch, because you don’t rely on another stitch to make the increase.

Most patterns have a beginning (selvedge) a middle (repeat) and an end (the other selvedge).

I only colored the background of the repeat, with any stitches that lead to or from the repeat written out. In this case I was writing a pattern for a “swatch” beginning with 16-11-16 stitches.

After the first few rows, I sometimes write out the repeats. Your pattern may only need the “selvedge” “repeat” and “selvedge.”

How to “freeze” the top (number of stitches) row: Select “View” in the tool bar and choose your options.

 

The Help feature in Excel provides more information on View, Freezing Panes, and Splitting your screen. I use all these features, and others. The tool bars have many options. It pays to take the time to learn how to use Excel.

The dotted line around my illustration indicates it is only a partial view of  an Excel tool bar.

Getting to work:

            Whenever I see an asterisk (*) in my pattern, I know it means to repeat a section, so I write it out in a part of my spreadsheet that is empty. As I write my pattern in the spreadsheet, I am constantly moving the “Assets” (things I will copy and paste) down the page.

Then I copy and paste it nearby (still not on a row).  I now have two of the repeat. One of them gets a colored background, the other is left plain. This is done so I can copy and paste the repeat as many times as I need – and still be able to see the original repeat sequence. Even the most complex patterns are “repeats” of a given sequence of stitches.

I may do the same with a short repeat placed in brackets “[k1, p1] three times”.

Please send me a comment if you have anything to add. This is in early stages of development so there may be changes later.

Abbreviations:

K         Knit

P          Purl

O         Yarn Over, making an increase

P2tog   Purl 2 stitches together, making a decrease

K2tog  Knit 2 stitches together making a decrease

Mr     Make 1 Right

Ml     Make 1 Left

[xx]   Stitches within a bracket for a short repeat, often within a repeat.

P.S. When knitting, I found that a magnetic board 

with a  magnetic strip works well. 

I also use a small square magnet to limit

what I see to just a few stitches. 

Then after each portion I check my work.

Don’t bother notifying me of mistakes in the content of the cells.

They have been made deliberately to stress this is not a pattern.

Visit me at Elaine (Lainy) Rutledge on Ravelry

DBDC/x

 
DBDC/x = Diary of a Brain Damaged Creative in the Unknown

I was born with the cord wrapped around my neck. The doctors  must have told my parents I would be brain damaged.                                                                                                                                        

Heaven forbid they give them any hope for me.

If I wasn't brain damaged at birth, I was by the time I left home, with only what I could carry.                                                                                     

If you think me complaining, you are wrong.

Because I didn't see myself as smart, pretty, or having any value whatsoever, I tried to learn what I lacked.                                                                                                                                                                                                       I learned to love learning as a hero loves his quest.

I've never completed the task, and have never fit in.                                                                                       

However, accepting that fact, I did whatever necessary to survive and be happy.

In my 70s, I've achieved that blissful state.

But then, I'm a slow learner.

How to ply yarn

 

How to “ply” yarn:

Why would you want to?

1.   3 different shades of the same color plied together

            will produce a yarn with subtle depth.

      2.   Yarn is weak and breaks easily.

      3.   Pattern calls for worsted weight (10 ply)

            and all you have is 2 ply.

      4.  You want to blend fibers.

Tools:

DPNs in wood or bamboo

(DPN = Double pointed needle)

Whittling knife

Yarn

Optional: a wooden bead or wheel on one

     end of each DPN.

Instructions:

Carve a notch in the end of a DPN.

Attach yarn to DPN with a half hitch knot.

Spin the DPN so the yarn winds tighter – much tighter – til it curls up on itself.

Holding yarn so it doesn’t curl up on itself, undo the hitch knot and wind the yarn around the spindle – (DPN).

With two or more full spindles in clamps so they will turn only when you pull on them, tie the ends together on another spindle.

Wind the spindle the opposite direction to spin the plies together – or let them relax and spin themselves, a little at a time.

Circular Swatch Knitting

 Circular Stockinette Swatch

© Elaine Rutledge, 2021. Permission granted to reprint for educational purposes. Any reprint for profit will be prosecuted.

Yarn: Wool of Andes Worsted, cotton *fence yarn

Needle: size 7 plastic circular

Gauge 19 st = 4”

CO 29: – Knot *fencing yarn to tail  at end of cast-on:

19  pattern stitches and 10 (5 x 2) selvedge stitches.

Work 1 row, slide work to the other end creating a float and secure with a clove hitch. Tie the floating end to the fence*. remove the clove hitch, knit a few stitches, and cut the float.

Norah’s 5 Stitch Selvedges***:

1^st Row: Sl-2 (purlwise) YIB, P1, K1, P1 work in pattern to last 5 st, P1, K1, P1, K2

2^nd Row: Sl-2 (purlwise) YIF, K3, work to last 5, K5.

Repeat the row sequence.

 If you examine your work

at the end of each row, you can

fix mistakes sooner.

“A stitch in time, saves 9”

 

*Fencing yarn: Tie one at each end to ‘fence in’ your work. Cotton fence on wool will not ‘felt’, and vice-versa.

How to do it: With float secured to both needles (clove hitched to opposite side needle), using a strand of string or yarn, knot each row end with a double half hitch or clove knot. You can slide the row end up or down the fence to adjust the tension to match your knitting. Not too tight, not too 

loose. The floating yarn must be kept taut while tying the fence knot.

If you use 2 different colored fence yarns, you will always know which is the “right” side. Some patterns have no right or wrong side when finished. I sometimes let ‘habit’ take over and turn the work.

 

Work foundation row and 4 rows of your choice for a hem: It should be at least a 2 stitch, 2 row opposing sequence** to balance the stitches. If the hem stitch is not the same gauge as the stitch you are swatching, add or decrease stitches after, and before the hems to adjust for the difference.

The exception: working a swatch at least 8” square, measuring in 3 places, and taking an average count will compensate for the discrepancy.

**Opposing sequence: a rhythm of knits and purls that will lay flat without curling or distortion. For example: (1) garter, (2) moss stitch. NOT good: Stockinette or ribbing.

Work selvedges, then knit each row for circ stockinette.

***Norah’s 5 Stitch Selvedge might work for a hem. Adapted for circular knitting from The Knitting Cables Sourcebook, by Norah Gaughan.

Back Side of work. Take care to keep floats loose.

Otherwise, your corner will curve like mine did. 

First Clove Hitch fence knot step: With the bridge held taut

jump over the bridge and run in front of the tree.

Also called a Half Hitch

To do a double half hitch, do it again.

Subsequent Clove Hitch step: then jump under 

the bridge and go into the hole.

 (This is an example of an **opposing sequence. 

The first step is made in one direction 

and the second step in the opposite direction.)

Notes on the side fences:

Use contrasting yarn: if knitting wool, use cotton, 

or vice versa. Wool on wool will felt, and the float 

will not slide easily in the knot.

The whole idea is to be able to slide the floats

 along the hitch to adjust the tension when finished. 

The tail (illustrated as a ‘bridge’) must be kept taut 

when tightening the knot, or it will become entangled in the knot, and will not slide.

I turn my work to the back side to tie to the fence. It reminds me to work only on the front.

 Deepest gratitude to

Norah Gaughan, 

author of Knitted Cables Sourcebook

For sharing with me her

5 Stitch Selvedge stitch sequence.

Back to Appliqué Basics

 After years of trying all the new fangled ways to do appliqué, I am re-learning the "right" way. Practice, practice, practice.

The project is a composition of two different patterns - the center medallion is:

Tapestry, by Urban Elementz, 

and the surrounding blocks are: 

Fleur by Bobbie Ashley. 

The Tapestry pattern is perfect for new and old beginners - one shape, 

many different sizes and placements. 

I remembered a teacher once saying: List the things you think you know and learn that first! 

Here is a photo of me re-learning how to take a simple stitch:

The method I am using reminds me of the way Ami Simms works. 

She accomplishes the same thing with an entirely different approach.  

I love her website. 

By holding the work this way, with the thumb on the unit, and the foundation rolling 

over the index finger you can see into the space to stitch. 

I am using silk thread, 100 wt. 

and have it tied in a knot to the needle. 

The back basted appliqué design on the foundation stays in place. 

I stitch next to it, being carefully to not stitch into it

It's easy to remove if I do, but why work unnecessarily?

Each stitch goes only through one layer of fabric, and the stitches line up. 

The needle goes into the fabric next to where it came out of the unit. 

When the thread is pulled taut, everything falls into place, like magic.

Notice my edge is not creased. I don't want to accidently crease in a tuck 

under the unit that will never lay right.