What to do when...

You must modify a pattern without changing the stitch count ~

-from the diary of a brain damaged creative.

            Sometimes, you just need to make changes. Perhaps your creativity angel is poking you and the only way to get her to stop is to pay attention and do as she demands.

But with knitting, you can really go off the rails making changes when you don’t know what you’re doing. The main thing is stitch count. If you have a stitch dictionary, you’ll notice that all the patterns have a set stitch count. It may be “Multiple of 7 plus 4." When I see that, I know the pattern is symmetrical, and that it takes 4 additional stitches to even things out at the end of the row (or repeat.) The smaller the repeat of the stitch and row count, the safer it is to modify: Stockinette stitch is 1 stitch (knit on right side) one row, and another stitch (purl on wrong side) on the next row when knitting flat. To further complicate things, if you are knitting circular every row is knit - making it easy to modify. Garter stitch also lends itself to modifications, being 1 stitch (knit) on every row, but knitting circular you would knit one row, purl one row. A border of 22 rows – each row with a different stitch count would be difficult, if not impossible, to change unless the 'pattern' changes will match the main body of the project. For example: your project ends with 3 major parts (right side, back, left side) but the border pattern is a repeat of 8 plus some. Three does not go into eight without having something left over. If the leftover is not equal to the "plus some" of each row it won't work. As much as we'd like to, there is no changing laws of physics to suit ourselves.

 So let’s stay safe out there! (to quote an old tv show)

 

How can I change a pattern without changing the stitch count?

            Enlarging: Requirements include having enough yarn. When you are satisfied that you do, you can gradually move up to larger needles. There is a sweet spot when it comes to needle size, yarn size and stitch size, so you will want to play around with swatches first to make sure your choices will work.

            Downsizing: This gets tricky but is generally easier than enlarging a pattern. A long-sleeved top-down pullover (jumper to my British friends) may be OK being cut off just below (or above) the bust. The shawl may work with a different, but narrower border provided the stitch count is compatible with the stitch count of the main part of it.

            Again, you can change the gauge by using a finer yarn and smaller needles. Swatching is necessary to know what will work and what will not.

            Felting or “fulling”: If you feel really confident you can shrink the finished item. This is scary but could conceivably work. Felting means to make felt while fulling is shrinking only a little to make the fabric look fuller. Be aware when shrinking that nothing really goes away – a shorter length/width means a thicker fabric. Note: It is possible that "fulling" was a historical term for blocking. Except woven items were fulled as well as knitted and knotted so that is debatable.

YIKES! You can see you will not have enough yarn – the dye lot is not available (or yarn was custom dyed) and you are on a deadline to finish this project. You are too far into it to rip it out and start over.

            Here is where it is helpful to have learned to analyze patterns: Examine the pattern repeats, count stitches, count rows – try to find where substituting another yarn or color will work. There are several options – or things you wish to avoid.

            Spotty color: A small consistent color change may result in polka dots that really don't play well with the over-all pattern. Small color changes may mean weaving in ends to the point of adding weight to the over-all project that changes the “look” and “drape.”

            Stripes: Whole rows of color change may result in stripes. The effect can be minimized by choosing the same color that is one step up or down in value (lightness or darkness). The goal is making it look intentional!

            Borders: A contrasting border might work. Consideration of color*, contrast** and harmony*** is essential to giving the final project the look of being planned from the beginning. ***”Harmony” means to pick up a color that is already present in the project, but not the main color. **”Contrast” means a shade lighter or darker. *”Color” means introducing an entirely new color that blends well with colors already in the pattern. These design principles, noted by asterisks, are specific to this article – there are more things to know about each one than is described here.

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