What if A Corrected Pattern is not like the original...

 It happens...

Sometimes a correction actually changes the pattern. Given that knitting is like geometry, and there is a right and wrong way, what do you do?

Most patterns have variety in them, be it stripes, or simply a change in texture. Therefore your change in the pattern may work out just fine. Maybe not. The only way to know for sure is to try it. Make a swatch if you're unsure of the outcome. Or, simply take the risk.

1. If you keep corrections near the beginning or end, the selvedges (in the case of a right side and a left side) and the outer edges of the center, you are less likely to have a mess.

2. Remember that there is a right and wrong side of the fabric. If the main background is a stockinette stitch, follow that pattern in your subsequent rows. Likewise any other obvious background pattern.

If you have used markers to note the pattern stitches, follow the pattern within that area. Be aware that the pattern itself may gain more stitches as rows progress. A careful study of your original pattern, or the chart will reveal that progression. If your pattern doesn't have a chart, I suggest you make one. Learning to make a chart is essential if you choose to master advanced knitting techniques. 

3. Lace patterns may be difficult to discern the exact background. In that case, whatever change you make, be consistent in following stitch sequences and rows. 

    I like to use blue markers for wrong side rows, and red markers for right side rows. The reason for this is simple: Red is my favorite color, and I love to go sailing. The markers in the Bay are designated:  "Red right, return." It makes it easy for me to remember. You may choose a different system.

    One way I am consistent is to always start a wrong side row - after the selvedge - with a purl stitch, and a right side row with a knit stitch. There will often be increases or decreases in lace, and the system may seem to cause an inconsistency. However, if my increases and decreases create a pattern my choice of  knit or purl will also lend a feature to the pattern. For example, if I increase 4 stitches on every wrong side row, and 6 stitches on every right side row, the knits and purls will be consistent, if not exactly like the original pattern.

   As Elizabeth at Radiant Earth Studios says: "You can always add a touch of magic.  It never has to be an either/or situation."

Yes, there is...Virginia.

When I wrote the post for June 19th, I wondered if I was exaggerating...

So I went out for some research, and found

Herbert Niebling, Knitter Extraordinaire.

My source was the trusty

                                     Piecework Magazine newsletter.

Mary Frances Wogec has written a wonderful article on this Grand Master of Knitting.

To quote the author: 

"Some of his larger table covers contain as many as 300 rows, with the outer rows comprising hundreds of stitches, all to be worked in fine thread from pages of complex charts."

He is credited with designing the symbols used for charts, 

making knitting patterns accessible to everyone, 

whether or not they could read the written word, 

without the barrier of language differences. 

If you read all the way to the end, you will find tips for contemporary knitters.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

As a lifelong fiber artist, author, illustrator, et al, the publications of 

Long Thread Media

have been a mainstay for my historical research before writing any article. 

As inspiration, I've gotten many ideas from the magazines,

 as well as re-visited techniques learned from life.

It is so nice to have a reliable source, 

especially in this day of 

advertising masking itself as education.

~May your scissors be sharp, your needles straight, and your threads strong.

What if...

 A knitting Pattern has a longer repeat

than you can memorize...

If you don't wish to re-write the pattern,

you can break it down into patterns within the pattern.

For example:

 Yes, it is often printed that small with no spacing, 

in abbreviations!

That is 40 stitches! If I counted right.

Anything more than a local phone number is beyond me.

It  becomes:

knit, purl, knit

central-double-decrease

yarn over, purl 2 together, yarn over...

I solved my problem by printing out that pattern page.

I cut out one line, or even half of a line, using a craft knife.

Then I cut out my hole-in-the-paper with a generous margin all around.

I glue the paper to heavy paper with rubber cement, 

cut out the hole and trim the edges.

Or I may cut out “L” shapes, so  my frame is adjustable.

The frame is attached to my pattern with bulldog clips, magnets, or whatever is handy and works.

I’m happy to see so many gaining experience in the field.

I’m unhappy they have so little experience in the field.

To be safe, learn from a professional, or 2 or 3 professionals.

Just as you wouldn’t choose a map prepared by the novice mapmaker. 

Remember those cheap GPS devices? Don't ask.

An inexperienced map designer may not know the terrain well enough. 

For instance, they may not realize that 

the bridge ahead is a toll bridge, 

and the toll road is barricaded, 

only open 3 months of the year.

Or that the bridge may have washed out 

during last night’s rain. 

That’s how places like No Name, Colorado come into being.

Don’t let the locals try to tell you it comes from the NoName Native Americans. 

That tribe doesn't exist.

(pronounced: Noe Nahmee).

Currently, I am learning from Laura Nelkins at http://www.nelkindesigns.com.

Her patterns range from the very beginner to intricate lacemaker. 

Some of the more complex patterns have many options – to add beads, or not. 

How many beads to add and where? 

Along with some variety in sizing. 

She has “knit-alongs” and clubs. One club is for those with deep pockets, 

another for those of us on a budget. 

She uses pattern testers and publishes nothing until it is perfect.

 As usual, the pattern I have used is not a real pattern.

Happy Knitting!

From the Test Kitchen - Appliqué Needles

Clover Black Gold Needles

A well designed Needle makes all the difference

When I first saw these needles, I thought "What's the point in having a coated needle? Surely there are ways to minimize the chance of a rusting."

Then I set aside my quilting "betweens," and tried them. It felt as if the needle didn't slide through the fabric as smoothly, but it wasn't a problem. So I continued adding a different color silk to each needle until all were in my linen needle book.

I  live in a warm and humid coastal area and have found that cotton or wool needle books will hold the moisture and cause the needles to rust, while linen, though absorbent, dries quickly.

What to do when...

You must modify a pattern without changing the stitch count ~

-from the diary of a brain damaged creative.

            Sometimes, you just need to make changes. Perhaps your creativity angel is poking you and the only way to get her to stop is to pay attention and do as she demands.

But with knitting, you can really go off the rails making changes when you don’t know what you’re doing. The main thing is stitch count. If you have a stitch dictionary, you’ll notice that all the patterns have a set stitch count. It may be “Multiple of 7 plus 4." When I see that, I know the pattern is symmetrical, and that it takes 4 additional stitches to even things out at the end of the row (or repeat.) The smaller the repeat of the stitch and row count, the safer it is to modify: Stockinette stitch is 1 stitch (knit on right side) one row, and another stitch (purl on wrong side) on the next row when knitting flat. To further complicate things, if you are knitting circular every row is knit - making it easy to modify. Garter stitch also lends itself to modifications, being 1 stitch (knit) on every row, but knitting circular you would knit one row, purl one row. A border of 22 rows – each row with a different stitch count would be difficult, if not impossible, to change unless the 'pattern' changes will match the main body of the project. For example: your project ends with 3 major parts (right side, back, left side) but the border pattern is a repeat of 8 plus some. Three does not go into eight without having something left over. If the leftover is not equal to the "plus some" of each row it won't work. As much as we'd like to, there is no changing laws of physics to suit ourselves.

 So let’s stay safe out there! (to quote an old tv show)

 

How can I change a pattern without changing the stitch count?

            Enlarging: Requirements include having enough yarn. When you are satisfied that you do, you can gradually move up to larger needles. There is a sweet spot when it comes to needle size, yarn size and stitch size, so you will want to play around with swatches first to make sure your choices will work.

            Downsizing: This gets tricky but is generally easier than enlarging a pattern. A long-sleeved top-down pullover (jumper to my British friends) may be OK being cut off just below (or above) the bust. The shawl may work with a different, but narrower border provided the stitch count is compatible with the stitch count of the main part of it.

            Again, you can change the gauge by using a finer yarn and smaller needles. Swatching is necessary to know what will work and what will not.

            Felting or “fulling”: If you feel really confident you can shrink the finished item. This is scary but could conceivably work. Felting means to make felt while fulling is shrinking only a little to make the fabric look fuller. Be aware when shrinking that nothing really goes away – a shorter length/width means a thicker fabric. Note: It is possible that "fulling" was a historical term for blocking. Except woven items were fulled as well as knitted and knotted so that is debatable.

YIKES! You can see you will not have enough yarn – the dye lot is not available (or yarn was custom dyed) and you are on a deadline to finish this project. You are too far into it to rip it out and start over.

            Here is where it is helpful to have learned to analyze patterns: Examine the pattern repeats, count stitches, count rows – try to find where substituting another yarn or color will work. There are several options – or things you wish to avoid.

            Spotty color: A small consistent color change may result in polka dots that really don't play well with the over-all pattern. Small color changes may mean weaving in ends to the point of adding weight to the over-all project that changes the “look” and “drape.”

            Stripes: Whole rows of color change may result in stripes. The effect can be minimized by choosing the same color that is one step up or down in value (lightness or darkness). The goal is making it look intentional!

            Borders: A contrasting border might work. Consideration of color*, contrast** and harmony*** is essential to giving the final project the look of being planned from the beginning. ***”Harmony” means to pick up a color that is already present in the project, but not the main color. **”Contrast” means a shade lighter or darker. *”Color” means introducing an entirely new color that blends well with colors already in the pattern. These design principles, noted by asterisks, are specific to this article – there are more things to know about each one than is described here.

Please leave a comment if you found this helpful.

How to re-Write a Knitting Pattern for People Who Can't Read

How to set up a knitting pattern in Excel

for people who cannot read charts or written patterns.

This spreadsheet was created using Microsoft Excel. Other programs may be similar, but different in some respects. Any similarity to a previously published pattern is coincidental.

Set up the spreadsheet with column width at 4.0 to 6.0 and height at 25 – 30 (whatever you are comfortable with.) The size of the cells relates to the amount of information, and font size of the contents of each cell. Cells should be big enough for the least amount of info that can be understood and smallest font you can easily see.

Format the cells as "Text" so Excel doesn't auto correct your entries.

Table 1   A pattern that is not a pattern - only for illustration.

Run the cursor down the rows and right click. 

A menu should come up, with the words “hide and “unhide.”

                      The rows affected will turn green in the row count column, and grey across the sheet.

                                    Note the lifeline after End of row 1

 The “hide” feature allows you to hide some rows so you can place the row you are working on to sit just below the first row – in this case, the number of stitches. You “unhide” the hidden rows when you need to refer back to them, as you would when the pattern says, “repeat row 2.”

 

 Column A shows the number of stitches you have at the beginning of the row and the end of the row, so you can count to check your accuracy. A pattern may have an even, equal number in the right and left sides and an odd number in the middle if the pattern is symmetrical. It may have that an odd number on each side and still be symmetrical. Look for a pattern within the pattern.

Inst - look for instructions on this line. I merge cells above what the instructions refer to, then type the instruction inside the merged cell. I may have to change the font to make it fit.

I put a wide, dark border around my set of 3 parts to each row.

When I complete 20 stitches, (less on a bad day) or a pattern repeat, I place a marker.

I am never counting more than 20 at a time.

Column B shows the rows according to whether they are the right side of a garment, the center, or the left side of a garment. The different background colors of the 3 row indicate that the 3 rows group in the same knitting row.

Each cell indicates what you do.

K, knit; P, purl; O, Yarn over  - in a size 11 pt. or 12 pt. font

and p2tog in size 8 pt. font.

Increased stitches are shaded green, and only those show up as a double wide cell in the case of working 2 stitches together. “Make Ones” and “yarn overs” are shown as one stitch, because you don’t rely on another stitch to make the increase.

Most patterns have a beginning (selvedge) a middle (repeat) and an end (the other selvedge).

I only colored the background of the repeat, with any stitches that lead to or from the repeat written out. In this case I was writing a pattern for a “swatch” beginning with 16-11-16 stitches.

After the first few rows, I sometimes write out the repeats. Your pattern may only need the “selvedge” “repeat” and “selvedge.”

How to “freeze” the top (number of stitches) row: Select “View” in the tool bar and choose your options.

 

The Help feature in Excel provides more information on View, Freezing Panes, and Splitting your screen. I use all these features, and others. The tool bars have many options. It pays to take the time to learn how to use Excel.

The dotted line around my illustration indicates it is only a partial view of  an Excel tool bar.

Getting to work:

            Whenever I see an asterisk (*) in my pattern, I know it means to repeat a section, so I write it out in a part of my spreadsheet that is empty. As I write my pattern in the spreadsheet, I am constantly moving the “Assets” (things I will copy and paste) down the page.

Then I copy and paste it nearby (still not on a row).  I now have two of the repeat. One of them gets a colored background, the other is left plain. This is done so I can copy and paste the repeat as many times as I need – and still be able to see the original repeat sequence. Even the most complex patterns are “repeats” of a given sequence of stitches.

I may do the same with a short repeat placed in brackets “[k1, p1] three times”.

Please send me a comment if you have anything to add. This is in early stages of development so there may be changes later.

Abbreviations:

K         Knit

P          Purl

O         Yarn Over, making an increase

P2tog   Purl 2 stitches together, making a decrease

K2tog  Knit 2 stitches together making a decrease

Mr     Make 1 Right

Ml     Make 1 Left

[xx]   Stitches within a bracket for a short repeat, often within a repeat.

P.S. When knitting, I found that a magnetic board 

with a  magnetic strip works well. 

I also use a small square magnet to limit

what I see to just a few stitches. 

Then after each portion I check my work.

Don’t bother notifying me of mistakes in the content of the cells.

They have been made deliberately to stress this is not a pattern.

Visit me at Elaine (Lainy) Rutledge on Ravelry