Entrelac - Another way to count rows

Another way to count rows (for Entrelac you want every other row) is to place a marker (that opens) at the beginning of the first and every other row following. To check yourself, if you spread the stitches you will see 2 yarn bits stretched between each pin.

In this example, the pattern is 14 rows and 7 stitches. The needle is inserted through the first stitch to be picked up, while pin-markers show the other 6 stitches for picking up.

After you have loaded the needle with the row that has been picked up and knit/purled, it's a good idea to adjust the tension of the stitches. During the learning stage, the process may feel clumsy, and your stitches will reflect that.

Entrelac and Beyond

Rosemary Drysdale has written two excellent books for those interested in knitting in the Entrelac technique. I opted for the second book and found it in limited supply. 

While I have nothing to add to Drysdale's instruction, there are some tips for those with challenges. 

If you choose to knit using three or more colors, choices are relatively simple. But to use one hue and shade the rows from light to dark, called making a 'value gradation', the task is a bit more complicated. 

Without going into the scientific aspects of light reflection, you can see the value of a color by taking a picture of it and changing the image to black and white. Once you have photos of the different values of your color, you can cut them into squares and arrange them to suit your purpose.

Other methods for viewing color in neutral values are 'red transparency' and 'black mirror.'

To make a 'red transparency': Buy some red, clear wrapping cellophane, and sandwich a rectangle of it between two cardboard frames.

To make a 'black mirror' you would coat one side of clear glass with black paint, and tape the edges for safe handling.

You can see through the red transparency, but the black mirror can only reflect the image.

Pay special attention to Row 4 and Row 5.

In 'Color,' there is good contract, but in 'Black and White,' there is very little difference in value. 

As a swatch, this shows that the more comfortable I am with the pattern, the more relaxed I am, and the tension is looser. 

I also found 2 places where I dropped a stitch doing the SSK. I will pay more attention next time.

Counting Rows

A knitter must be able to count stitches and rows accurately while knitting Entrelac, unlike some patterns that suggest knitting for a specific number of inches or centimeters.

Counting stitches on the needle is fairly simple, especially if you place markers to denote a repeat, or an easy number to remember: 5, 10, or 20, for example. 

Counting rows accurately can be challenging for anyone when the color of the yarn is very dark, but especially for those with vision problems.

When a freelancer, there were times when I needed a backup plan for 'downtime.' I learned accounting and hired out as a temp. Accounting taught me that if you must be accurate, it's good to have more than one way to check your work, as in double-entry bookkeeping. 

There are many methods and devices for counting rows, the following are two that I use:

The Vertical Lifeline

When I first learned to knit, I found instructions for using a contrasting thread to count rows. 

At the beginningof the first row, lay a thread across the yarn that lies between the first and second stitch. If you choose to count at the end of the row, place the thread next to the last, and the last stitch.

If I am working with a 2 row stitch (as in the knit one row, purl one row of stockinette stitch),  I put the thread at the beginning of the row. 

Lay the thread between this pair of stitches in each row.

                                                              Stockinette Stitch, right side.

                                                             Stockinette Stitch, wrong side.

You have knit only half the rows showing on the side you are looking at because the white cord covers the other rows. Count the yarn between the white thread (in this example) and double it to find the number of stockinette rows completed.

 Method #2

Cover the blocking mat with a contrasting color. Pin the knitting to the mat, stretching it slightly to separate the stitches just enough to clearly see them. Count the rows, including the row on the needle, or cable. Ordinarily, unless doing colorwork, you would not count the row on the needle, but this is another of those exceptions when you will.

Happy Knitting !

Would that worK?

 Chart it, swatch it and see!

While learning from the Craftsy Class: Lace Shawl Design, with Miriam Felton, I followed her instructions to go to stitch dictionaries to find patterns for particular motifs. In this case, I was looking for "leaves."

I found so many variations of leaves and noticed the designers use one of two ways to delineate a leaf on a background: with yarn-overs that produce holes around the leaf, or with purl stitches that raise a stockinette stitch leaf above the ground with yarn-overs accenting the center vein.

A good example of the latter method is illustrated in a free pattern from the website: Knitwise Girl, and can be found here.

Would that work for a hat, knitting on the right side, in the round?

First, I knit a swatch that included 4 pattern repeats, and one and a half row repeats. 

I wanted to work several rows as illustrated, then eliminate the half-drop repeat that fell between two leaves to add shaping to the fabric, to create a crown for the hat.

Using the written instructions I created a chart, but in doing so, I made the error of reading the even-numbered row (WS) from right to left. It didn't matter, until row 15, and while looking for a solution, I scrolled down and saw the author's chart below instructions, as well as a link to watch the video on YouTube. 

"When all else fails . . ."

Here is the original chart by Christine (aka Knitwise Girl)

How many leaves do you see?

At first I thought I saw three: one whole one in the middle, and one on either side. But that was my brain having a mind of its own and making the leap to make me believe I saw more than was there.

Now look at the chart after I ruled out the purl stitch border:

There are only two leaf motifs, neither of them shown as a whole image. That is why it's helpful to make your own chart, and expanding it as much as you need to see a 'whole motif." 

When you have a half-drop surface design, you will have some half motifs within a square or rectangle. Miriam Felton recommends swatching at least 4 repeats of a pattern from a dictionary (which are often charted in a rectangle, and knit flat.)

The chart after isolating the leaves to decide how to modify the pattern for shaping: 

Here I have 'decresed' 2 stitches in row 9 and 10, 4 stitches rows 11 and 12 - progressing to having decreased 8 stitches per half-pattern row repeat, just by not doing the yarn-overs.

But  I wanted that purl border to be yet narrower. By doing a decrease on either side of the middle, I can cut down the number of stitches from 5 to 3.  

I tried a center-double-decrease in the swatch, but it didn't give me the appearance I wanted. The nature of the purled border around the stockinette ground motif is to recede, so the leaf appears to lift forward. Therefore I had to find a purl decrease that does not attract any attention, but blends into the background as much as possible. 

So I hit the books and videos to find as many ways to make a purl decrease on the right side of the fabric as possible, and made a swatch to document what I found, using the same size needle and yarn as my pattern swatch.

Charting alone does not work for me. I need a chart reference but must knit on the swatch to see what works best in the specific project.

Decreasing for the top of the head:

I picked up the knitting at row 8: There are several ways to decrease a pair of purls 

After trying and 'tinking' (knit spelled backward, aka ripping) alternate ways to decrease a purl stitch on the right side to find a pleasing appearance, I chose one and continued the pattern until every other leaf was gone (in the 'half drop' - see the chart above.)

My wig stand came from a big-box fabric store and was on sale for $5.

Hat  Swatch:

Healing - grand but it itches

 Thank you to the faithful followers - as few or as many as you are.

I'm recovering from back surgery. Surgery went very well! Pain relief was immediate, even after the drugs wore off. It was for lumbar stenosis, a very painful thing. If you have sciatica, numbness, and pain - especially in the left leg - get thee to an MRI. It is easier to fix early on.

Computer time is limited until next month. 

One more thing -  I am getting a "lumbar kneeling stool" - it is better for your back than a chair.

Edit: Today, August 2, 2022, I saw the doctor for my "post-op" visit. I asked him about the stool, and he does not recommend it as being very hard on the knees. 

The best advice is that whatever you do- take breaks. If sitting at a computer, get up and walk around. If standing at the drafting table - sit down with a cup of coffee (or glass of wine?)

The draft of the new article should be done soon. Title: "Will this Work?"

How do you eat an elephant . . .?

 . . . One bite at a time.

This is an example of a chart I modified as an example. It is NOT a real chart, and any resemblance to a published pattern is purely coincidental. 

It was too wide to be shown clearly in this space so I have sliced it, and presented it in 2 pieces.

Knitted Lace Simple Chart

 

There's More than One Way . . .

 ...to write a chart !

The examples below are ‘lace knitting’ because the row following the pattern row is a basic stitch (knit or purl).

 

  

      This Chart would be knit FLAT.

      Notice that on the even rows (WS) the opposite is worked: 'Knit' becomes 'Purl,' 

      and 'Purl' becomes 'Knit.'

Below is a partial chart of a ‘Bead Cluster’ – found on pg 95 of the Magic of Shetland Lace Knitting, by Elizabeth Lovick, Pub 2013.