How to ply yarn

 

How to “ply” yarn:

Why would you want to?

1.   3 different shades of the same color plied together

            will produce a yarn with subtle depth.

      2.   Yarn is weak and breaks easily.

      3.   Pattern calls for worsted weight (10 ply)

            and all you have is 2 ply.

      4.  You want to blend fibers.

Tools:

DPNs in wood or bamboo

(DPN = Double pointed needle)

Whittling knife

Yarn

Optional: a wooden bead or wheel on one

     end of each DPN.

Instructions:

Carve a notch in the end of a DPN.

Attach yarn to DPN with a half hitch knot.

Spin the DPN so the yarn winds tighter – much tighter – til it curls up on itself.

Holding yarn so it doesn’t curl up on itself, undo the hitch knot and wind the yarn around the spindle – (DPN).

With two or more full spindles in clamps so they will turn only when you pull on them, tie the ends together on another spindle.

Wind the spindle the opposite direction to spin the plies together – or let them relax and spin themselves, a little at a time.

Circular Swatch Knitting

 Circular Stockinette Swatch

© Elaine Rutledge, 2021. Permission granted to reprint for educational purposes. Any reprint for profit will be prosecuted.

Yarn: Wool of Andes Worsted, cotton *fence yarn

Needle: size 7 plastic circular

Gauge 19 st = 4”

CO 29: – Knot *fencing yarn to tail  at end of cast-on:

19  pattern stitches and 10 (5 x 2) selvedge stitches.

Work 1 row, slide work to the other end creating a float and secure with a clove hitch. Tie the floating end to the fence*. remove the clove hitch, knit a few stitches, and cut the float.

Norah’s 5 Stitch Selvedges***:

1^st Row: Sl-2 (purlwise) YIB, P1, K1, P1 work in pattern to last 5 st, P1, K1, P1, K2

2^nd Row: Sl-2 (purlwise) YIF, K3, work to last 5, K5.

Repeat the row sequence.

 If you examine your work

at the end of each row, you can

fix mistakes sooner.

“A stitch in time, saves 9”

 

*Fencing yarn: Tie one at each end to ‘fence in’ your work. Cotton fence on wool will not ‘felt’, and vice-versa.

How to do it: With float secured to both needles (clove hitched to opposite side needle), using a strand of string or yarn, knot each row end with a double half hitch or clove knot. You can slide the row end up or down the fence to adjust the tension to match your knitting. Not too tight, not too 

loose. The floating yarn must be kept taut while tying the fence knot.

If you use 2 different colored fence yarns, you will always know which is the “right” side. Some patterns have no right or wrong side when finished. I sometimes let ‘habit’ take over and turn the work.

 

Work foundation row and 4 rows of your choice for a hem: It should be at least a 2 stitch, 2 row opposing sequence** to balance the stitches. If the hem stitch is not the same gauge as the stitch you are swatching, add or decrease stitches after, and before the hems to adjust for the difference.

The exception: working a swatch at least 8” square, measuring in 3 places, and taking an average count will compensate for the discrepancy.

**Opposing sequence: a rhythm of knits and purls that will lay flat without curling or distortion. For example: (1) garter, (2) moss stitch. NOT good: Stockinette or ribbing.

Work selvedges, then knit each row for circ stockinette.

***Norah’s 5 Stitch Selvedge might work for a hem. Adapted for circular knitting from The Knitting Cables Sourcebook, by Norah Gaughan.

Back Side of work. Take care to keep floats loose.

Otherwise, your corner will curve like mine did. 

First Clove Hitch fence knot step: With the bridge held taut

jump over the bridge and run in front of the tree.

Also called a Half Hitch

To do a double half hitch, do it again.

Subsequent Clove Hitch step: then jump under 

the bridge and go into the hole.

 (This is an example of an **opposing sequence. 

The first step is made in one direction 

and the second step in the opposite direction.)

Notes on the side fences:

Use contrasting yarn: if knitting wool, use cotton, 

or vice versa. Wool on wool will felt, and the float 

will not slide easily in the knot.

The whole idea is to be able to slide the floats

 along the hitch to adjust the tension when finished. 

The tail (illustrated as a ‘bridge’) must be kept taut 

when tightening the knot, or it will become entangled in the knot, and will not slide.

I turn my work to the back side to tie to the fence. It reminds me to work only on the front.

 Deepest gratitude to

Norah Gaughan, 

author of Knitted Cables Sourcebook

For sharing with me her

5 Stitch Selvedge stitch sequence.